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A Prison in Paradise - Alcatraz, San Francisco
Bay
by: Nate Soule
In the middle of San Francisco bay, framed by some of the most beautiful
and majestic views in the country lies Alcatraz Island. A federal penitentiary
is not usually included on the list of one’s vacation plans, however
the history and beauty of this island warrant an exception. From 1934
to 1963 a number of the most feared criminals in the American penal
system called “the rock” home. Famous for the stark contrast
between its stunningly serene surroundings and the harshness of life
and character inside its walls, Alcatraz has found its way into American
lore.
Originally named “Isla de los Alcatraces”, or “Island
of the Pelicans” it was later changed and shortened to Alcatraz.
Today looking out from the island visitors see a picturesque view from
the Golden Gate Bridge, and downtown San Francisco, to the Bay Bridge,
and Treasure Island. One can for a moment imagine this location as the
setting of a luxurious resort. Turning from the views outside the island
to its interior contents however, quickly brings back the notion that
this island was the scene of a less comfortable history.
Most famous for its role as a prison, Alcatraz was initially a military
base. When gold was discovered in California in 1848 San Francisco’s
population jumped from 300 to 30,000 in a matter of years. With this
new influx of population and wealth there was a need for the United
States government to protect the area from other nations. In 1850 when
California became a state, a triangle of fortifications was planned
to protect San Francisco Bay. Upon its completion in 1853 Fortress Alcatraz
took on the lead role as the most powerful coastal defense on the western
coast. The landscape of the island was incorporated into the design,
and high walls were built on the rocky isle, leaving the dock as the
only access to the fort.
Alcatraz was never called upon to defend the bay, however a number
of small incidents during the Civil War brought the island into the
spot light. As its use as a defensive fortress lessoned, the island
began to take on a new role, that of military prison. Eleven enlisted
men were incarcerated in the guardhouse basement in 1859, and slowly
deserters, thieves, and other military criminals were sent there from
the San Franciscan forts. Finally in 1861 Alcatraz was named the official
prison for the Department of the Pacific. The island served this role
until 1933 when the cost of importing supplies led the Army to leave,
sending prisoners to Kansas and New Jersey.
At this point crime in America had become an increasing problem, fed
largely by the troubles associated with prohibition. A new prison was
sought that could take the worst of the country’s criminals, and
seclude them from the public. While land in Alaska was originally considered,
the Army’s recent departure from Alcatraz cemented the island
as the choice for America’s new “super-prison”. The
facility was to take in the most troublesome of inmates from other prisons
around the nation.
In 1934, Al Capone, perhaps the penitentiary’s most infamous
prisoner, arrived as one of the first official transfers. His arrival
generated enormous interest, and sparked more headlines then the opening
of the prison itself. Previously while imprisoned in Atlanta, Capone
had been able to achieve a lifestyle within the jail that was unheard
of for other prisoners. A carpeted cell and a radio were among the niceties
he was able to procure through bribes and other methods. He was even
able to continue to manage his organization through relatives who established
themselves in a nearby hotel. For this reason he was put on a secure
prison railroad car without notice, and shipped to Alcaztraz in the
hopes that the lack of outside contact would be the government’s
answer to the Capone problem. On the rock Capone was never able to manipulate
the warden or guards, and was confined to menial duties along with the
rest of the prison population. Staying only 4 ½ years due to
health complications Capone left for FCI Terminal Island in 1939.
Despite J. Edgar Hoover’s displeasure with the idea, rising costs
and a new federal prison in Illinois brought about the closing of Alcatraz
in 1963. Capone, along with other famous inmates such as George “Machine
Gun” Kelly, Alvin Karpis, and Robert Franklin Stroud (the birdman
of Alcatraz), ensured that the prison would live in American minds for
years to come. Today the island is run by the National Parks Service,
which offers daily tours of the former prison. Visitors can marvel at
the wildlife, gardens, and fantastic views from the high cliffs before
entering the cell house where they can be locked within one of the solitary
confinement cells. There in the cold pitch black room they can experience
for just a brief moment what life must have been like at the prison
in paradise.
About The Author - Nate Soule is a travel enthusiast
and helps maintain the travel website AcrossDistance.com (http://www.acrossdistance.com).
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